“This Trail Tries to Dissolve You“

Gazelle said that to me and Thomas and Tapo and Orange Aid on the third day of my Appalachian Trail thru hike. She was 640km/400mi into a NOBO FKT (northbound fastest known time) attempt and I was 50 miles into a flip-flop thru hike attempt which had started three days earlier in Erwin, TN. We were eating Little Caesars pizza in the Appalachian Station at 19E hostel in the midst of a storm that I’d pushed a 40km/25mi day through the Roan Highlands get out of. After a relatively pleasant first day on trail featuring a lovely sunset at Beauty Spot, it had started raining and not let up for 48 hours (it would continue to rain on and off every day for about another week). Despite my relief at being inside and out of the deluge, that kind of mileage is WAY too big for the third day of a thru, or at least the third day of my thru. Everything hurt, and I wasn’t at all sure I was ready to get back out there the following morning. I, to quote the mighty Dave Woodman Sr., “didn’t know whether to shit or go blind.” Dissolve you, indeed.

I’ve thought about what Gazelle said that night a lot in the intervening 40ish days. In one sense it’s literally true: water is the universal solvent and this trail dumps a lot of it on you, at regular intervals. And when it’s not raining it’s so humid that between the water in the air and the puddles and the sweat you’re never really dry. Combine that with the perpetual movement of hiking and you have a recipe for physical dissolution. Not to mention the joint-grinding, tendon-fraying potential of a trail that features a degree of elevation gain and loss equivalent to 16 times up and down Mount Everest. But it’s also true in a metaphorical sense: all your unnecessary qualms about being wet and dirty and smelly and bug-bitten just kind of melt away in the face of the realization that, no matter what each morning brings, you just have to keep hiking; I don’t worry about the rain so much any more. And I hope Gazelle hits her FKT.

The Stats:

Erwin, TN: 551.2km/344.5mi

Harpers Ferry, WV: 1,642.5km/1,026.6mi

Total: 1,091.4km/682.1mi

Days: 42

Mileage per day: 25.99km/16.24mi

Zero mileage days: 6

Mileage per day, net of zeros: 30.3km/18.9mi

Max. daily mileage: 57.3km/35.8mi

Min. daily mileage: 7.7km/4.8mi

The Details:

May 24th – 569.3km/355.2mi Beauty Spot – 17.12km/10.7mi

May 25th – 593.3km/370.8mi Clyde Smith Shelter – 25.0km/15.6mi

May 26th – 633.0km/395.6mi Appalachian Station – 39.7km/24.8mi

May 27th – 633.0km/395.6mi Appalachian Station – 0km/0mi

May 28th – 662.4km/414.0mi Moreland Gap Shelter – 29.4km/18.4mi

May 29th – 685.9km/428.7mi Boots Off Hostel – 23.5km/14.7mi

May 30th – 700.8/438.0mi Vandeventer Shelter – 14.9km/9.3mi

May 31st – 724.0/452.5mi Double Spring Shelter – 22.7km/14.2mi

June 1st – 753.6km/471.0mi Damascus, VA – 29.6km/18.5mi

June 2nd – 753.6km/471.0mi Damascus, VA – 0km/0mi

June 3rd – 753.6km/471.0mi Damascus, VA – 0km/0mi

June 4th – 779.2km/487.0mi Lost Mountain Shelter – 25.1km/15.7mi

June 5th – 807.2km/504.5mi Wise Shelter – 28km/17.5mi

June 6th – 839.4km/524.6mi Trimpi Shelter – 32.2km/20.1mi

June 7th – 855.4km/534.6mi Marion, VA 16km/10mi

June 8th – 889.8km/556.1mi Campsite – 34.4km/21.5mi

June 9th – 912km/570.1mi Chestnut Knob Shelter – 22.4km/14.0mi

June 10th – 950.9km/594.3mi Helveys Mill Shelter – 38.7km/24.2mi

June 11th – 618.5 Wapiti Shelter – 38.7km/24.2mi

June 12th – 989.6km/625.7mi Woods Hole Hostel – 11.5km/7.2mi

June 13th – 1,019.8km/637.4mi Pearisburg – 18.7km/11.7mi

June 14th – 1,051.2km/657.0mi Pine Swamp Shelter – 31.4km/19.6mi

June 15th – 1,091.4km/682.1mi Sarver Hollow Shelter – 40.2km/25.1mi

June 16th – 1,127.8km/704.9mi Huckleberry’s Hostel – 36.5km/22.8mi

June 17th – 1,169.0km/730.6mi Daleville – 41.1km/25.7mi

June 18th – 1,169.0km/730.6mi Daleville – 0km/0mi

June 19th – 1,209.3km/755.8mi Buchanan View- 40.3km/25.2mi

June 20th – 1,241.8km/776.1mi Harrison Ground Spring – 32.5km/20.3mi

June 21st –  1.260.0km/787.5mi Glasgow, VA – 18.2km/11.4mi

June 22nd – 1.292.2km/807.6mi Brown Mountain Creek Shelter – 32.2km/20.1mi

June 23rd – 1,340.2km/837.6mi Harpers Creek Shelter- 48.0km/30.0mi

June 24th – 1,375.7km/859.8mi Paul Wolfe Shelter – 35.5km/22.2mi

June 25th – 1,383.4km/864.6mi Rockfish Gap – 7.7km/4.8mi

June 26th – 1,416.5km/885.3mi Blackrock Hut – 33.12km/20.7mi

June 27th – 1,456.2km/910.1mi  Country View Motel – 39.7km/24.8mi

June 28th – 1,513.4km/945.9mi Pass Mountain Hut- 57.3km/35.8mi

June 29th – 1,555.8km/972.4mi Mountain Home B&B – 42.4km/26.5mi

June 30th – 1,593.6km/996.0mi Rod Hollow Shelter – 37.8km/23.6mi

July 1st – 1,609.4km/1,005.9mi Bears Den Hostel – 15.8km/9.9mi

July 2nd – 1,642.6km/1,026.6mi Harpers Ferry – 33.12km/20.7mi

July 3rd – 1,642.6km/1,026.6mi Harpers Ferry – 0km/0mi

July 4th – 1,642.6km/1,026.6mi Harpers Ferry – 0km/0mi

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